Report 3
(from Jim Jennings)
It still seems incredulous to me that Gabe literally rode through
the whole country of Honduras with no food or water in one day;
granted the section of Honduras that the highway traverses is
less than 100M, but there is still something uncanny about it,
especially considering the humidity and high temperatures.
I'm sure that no coach would suggest such a training workout
considering the potential for dehydration. The few places that
offered ATM service for some reason denied his card so he was
without money as well.
Of course all of things that we as parents and sane human beings
warned Gabe about are coming true: mad mosquitoes who's only goal
in life seems to be to keep Gabe awake whenever he chooses to
sleep; little microscopic fauna that cause diarrhea (it is difficult
if not impossible to refrain from drinking untreated water); and
corrupt authorities.
When Gabe got to the border of Costa Rica--leaving Nicaragua--he
had to go inside to take care of bureaucratic details and when
he returned he found his Nike runner's watch gone. Of course the
soldiers outside were ignorant of where it might be. Maybe Nike
will provide him with another.
Moreover, there are the desperate people who have decided that
morality is for people dealt a better hand in the game of life.
Gabe has been robbed twice more since the last time in Mexico.
He met some French students in Granada, Nicaragua; he and French
were hanging out in a park sharing stories in Spanish, the mutual
language when a violent Nicaraguan accosted them and demanded
money. Gabe says he appeared to be on drugs and was brandishing
a stick bordering on a club; there was no way he was going to
get money from the group; there were five of the French and Gabe.
Nevertheless, somehow he caught Gabe off guard and whacked him
on the head.
Needless to say, it hurt and Gabe, spouting expletives, began
pursuit. Occasionally the attacker would turn around and taunt
Gabe with the stick. Finally he dropped the stick and took off
in full flight. Gabe could obviously have caught him, but decided
that it would be pointless. He returned to the group and tended
his wound. It still hurts, as does his jaw, from the truck collision.
The French students happened to be touring in Granada; they attend
school in San José, Costa Rica. Subsequently, Gabe rendezvoused
with them in San José for a bit of rest and relaxation
on the solstice(yeah right, they partied all night). At this point,
I tried to talk Gabe into seeing a doctor for his intestinal problems,
as well as, to rejuvenate his ailing bicycle. The roads with their
crater-sized pot holes take a toll on the rims, especially when
the gringo loco rides at night.
Gabe agreed that he and his bike need attention, but he wanted
to get out of the big city and into a more pastoral setting before
nurturing body, soul, and vehicle. The other robbery happened
in Liberia, Costa Rica, while Gabe was catnapping in a park.
Somebody took his money and chromatic harmonica from his fanny
pack while he slept; evidently the same guy (Gabe suspects) came
back afterward with way too much knowledge of the situation (he
knew where Gabe's bank card was stashed) and claimed he could
get Gabe's stuff back for a fee of course. He wanted Gabe to use
his bank card to get more cash to give him for his services. Gabe
was astonished at his hubris, but declined his services. The loss
was less than $10; the harmonica was a nice one worth about $30,
and will be difficult to replace.
At one point in Managua, Nicaragua, while in a restaurant eating,
Gabe was watching a televised soccer match; President Bush interrupted
the program to announce his "shock and awe" proposal.
This was the first Gabe had heard of the war. Gabe was neither
shocked nor awed, but he did ask for details.
In spite of the inconveniences, Gabe seems to be meeting new
friends and making quick, but deep connections. He basically loves
the indigenous people and most of the urbanites whom he meets.
He finds time to play music and--much to my chagrin and against
his better judgment--he sometimes dances all night with the party-hearty
people along the way. I guess one could say he has added dancing
to his training regimen, but after riding all day, it is probably
not the best idea.
On the other hand, I and many staff and students have been sick
for weeks at a time this winter with viruses, so who knows, maybe
Gabe's way isn't any more deleterious than the sedate by comparison
lifestyle of the typical American.
Gabe hasn't made up his mind whether he will sail from the Caribbean
side of Panama for Brazil or sail from the Pacific side for Ecuador.
He is enquiring from the people he meets as to road conditions
and other factors to help him determine the plan. Thankfully,
he at this point, has agreed to skip Colombia.
Gabe and I are already talking of an extensive rock climbing
program this summer which will continue probably as a lifestyle
for both of us. I hear Billy Herman is a rock climber and I think
other runners would benefit. It strengthens and toughens without
adding bulk.
We will have to see if capoeira fulfills its function; in a way
it already has by motivating this trip. He is also looking forward
to track workouts.
Introduction
(In which Gabe’s decision to ride his bike to Brazil [T&FN,
March] is explained)
Trip updates from Gabe’s father, Jim:
Report 1
(In which Gabe is robbed in Guadalajara, then pedals all night
to keep warm in the high altitude near Mexico City)
Report 2
(In which Gabe runs into a truck in Oaxaca)
Report 3
(In which Gabe is robbed in both Nicaragua and Costa Rica, but
remains in high spirits, meeting many new friends)
Report 4
(In which monkeys assault Gabe with coconuts as he runs through
the Costa Rican jungle and Gabe later accedes to his parents'
wishes that he skip violence-torn Colombia in favor of a plane
hop to altitudinous
Peru)
Report 5
(In which Gabe climbs the Andes with underinflated tires and is
beset by mosquitos in the rapidly disappearing rain forest on
the other side.)
Report 6
The final update, in which Gabe reaches his capoeira destination
of Salvador, Brazil, but is forced to return home by a dangerous
case of hepatitis.
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