Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest


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Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby DrJay » Mon Apr 29, 2013 1:06 pm

Sherpas accused of attacking Western climbers:

http://www.cnn.com/2013/04/29/world/asi ... ?hpt=hp_t3

"Leave the ice axe, take the cannoli."
Last edited by DrJay on Mon Apr 29, 2013 2:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby Conor Dary » Mon Apr 29, 2013 1:12 pm

I almost wish it was a volcano and blow itself up. Almost....

And this is the kind of climber that goes up Everest these days. Ugh...

http://dealbook.nytimes.com/2013/04/25/ ... ss&emc=rss
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby DrJay » Mon Apr 29, 2013 1:16 pm

Conor Dary wrote:I almost wish it was a volcano and blow itself up. Almost....


Then things would get REAL interesting with K2 at the top of the heap. One can eat quiche and still climb Everest.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby Conor Dary » Mon Apr 29, 2013 1:26 pm

DrJay wrote:
Conor Dary wrote:I almost wish it was a volcano and blow itself up. Almost....


Then things would get REAL interesting with K2 at the top of the heap. One can eat quiche and still climb Everest.


True, K2 is hard. As you noted, there are no tourists routes up there, like the South Col. Also it isn't as easy to get to, since no one really lives nearby, since there are no indigenous names for the Mountain. That is why it called K2.

Eat quiche? I am surprised someone hasn't brought a hot tub up there yet.

Yes, I would love to see the socialites queue up K2. Too bad Cerro Torre isn't the highest in South America. That would put a dent in the 7 Baggers club.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby DrJay » Wed May 01, 2013 4:39 am

Sidebar note, today is the 50th anniversary of the first American ascent of Everest, by Jim Whittaker, who summitted with Sherpa Nawang Gombu.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby Conor Dary » Wed May 01, 2013 7:23 am

Thanks for the reminder. Yes, going up the South Col. Of course the real adventure was Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld's climb up the West Ridge. The first traverse of a 8000 meter peak.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby DrJay » Thu May 23, 2013 3:29 pm

Conor Dary wrote:Thanks for the reminder. Yes, going up the South Col. Of course the real adventure was Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld's climb up the West Ridge. The first traverse of a 8000 meter peak.


50th anniversary of that one was yesterday. Probably the greatest Himalayan climb up to that point. Up the unclimbed West Ridge, over the top, descend the South Col route (now the "normal" route), catch up with Barry Bishop and Lute Jerstad who had climbed the South Col route a few hours earlier. The four were benighted and had a forced bivy at about 28,000', no tent, no sleeping bags, no oxygen. Fortunately a windless night. Lost a bunch of toes.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby gh » Thu May 23, 2013 4:24 pm

story in the paper this morning about a Japanese guy who just became the oldest, at 80. Think they said it was his fourth ascent.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby DrJay » Thu May 23, 2013 5:34 pm

NPR mentioned that. Record may be short-lived, they said. An 81 yo hopes to summit next week.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby catson52 » Sat May 25, 2013 11:55 am

Looks like Kanchenjunga has just claimed some victims. Apparently, these were more experienced climbers.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby shivfan » Wed May 29, 2013 12:58 am

It's the 60-year anniversary of Edmund Hillary scaling Mt Everest....

Don't forget Tenzing Norgay:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2013/ma ... ing-norgay
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby wamego relays champ » Wed May 29, 2013 1:30 am

shivfan wrote:It's the 60-year anniversary of Edmund Hillary scaling Mt Everest....


Perhaps, in part, to commemorate this anniversary, you may have seen the news of this base jumping achievement from the north face of Everest:

http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=50147797n

.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby KDFINE » Wed May 29, 2013 6:03 am

Reportedly the 80 year old Japanese climber announced the other day that he's done enough and won't be climbing Everest again, even if the 81 year old takes his "record."
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby 26mi235 » Wed May 29, 2013 8:12 pm

wrc: Can he take the lift back up and do it again?
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby gh » Thu May 30, 2013 6:45 am

The 81-year-old Nepalese had to turn back, but said he'll keep trying until he's 84.

As for the Japanese guy, he almost didn't make it back down, apparently. Needed major assistance.

And I just found out that he's famous on Kanchenjunga already! Anybody remember the great '70s movie The Man Who Skiied Down Everest? That was him.

Yesterday, by the way, was 60th anniversary of Hillary/Norgay.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby JumboElliott » Wed Jun 05, 2013 5:30 pm

I'd avoid Everest like the plague, especially the South Col. I want to climb Kanchenjunga.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby catson52 » Sun Jun 09, 2013 8:12 am

JumboElliott wrote:I'd avoid Everest like the plague, especially the South Col. I want to climb Kanchenjunga.


With four "peaks" above 8 km (I believe) that is quite a mountain, as seen from Gangtok or nearer points. My one wish would be just to see the North Face (Wall of Shadows) of Jannu or Kumbhakarna, just tucked away behind Kanchenjunga. A sheer, icy crusted wall some two kilometers high, overhanging in places, leading to the summit. I guess I will have to forgo that view - not even on the "bucket list" now.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby gh » Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:43 am

The June 03 edition of The New Yorker has a fabulous account of Ueli Steck's dustup on the Lhotse Face.

Bottom line: never call a Sherpa a machikne!
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby AFTERBURNER » Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:29 pm

K2 seems to have an indigenous name it's called "Chhogori/Qogir" or sometimes "Ketu/Kechu"

Anyone can confirm this?
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby gh » Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:47 am

Deadliest disaster ever (good old Khumbu Icefall)

http://www.aol.com/article/2014/04/18/1 ... d%3D466430
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby JumboElliott » Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:12 pm

It's so weird that the most dangerous part of Everest is ~10,000 feet from the summit, when compared to K2, where the bottleneck is after the final camp, and around 1,000 feet from the summit.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby DrJay » Fri Apr 18, 2014 8:19 pm

One of my best friends, 54 now, started climbing in eastern Canada and the Adirondacks when he was 14, eventually the Canadian Rockies, Alaska, NZ, etc. Everest was always one of his dreams. He went over maybe 12 years ago, knowing as much as any climber does about Everest and its routes and history, took one look at the Khumbu Icefall, had a vision of his 8 and 6 year old boys saying "Daddy, don't go in there," and packed out the next day. He went back about five years ago and summitted from the Tibetan side (much safer.)
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby JumboElliott » Sat Apr 19, 2014 11:51 am

The weird thing about the Northeast Ridge being safer is how much more technically challenging it is. The same thing is true of K2, where the majority of the deaths occur on the Abruzzi Spur, even though that is technically the least challenging route.
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Re: Yet another reason to avoid Mt. Everest

Postby wineturtle » Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:25 pm

http://www.cbc.ca/news/world/mount-ever ... -1.2616416

Discovery Network wingsuit jump called off.

Another body found now 13 confirmed dead.

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2014/a ... -avalanche

Everest Sherpas divided over call to halt climbs after fatal avalanche

Some want expeditions cancelled for the rest of the year as a mark of respect for the dead, but others fear loss of income...
The Nepalese government is considering cancelling all expeditions to the summit of Mount Everest for the rest of the year as rescuers abandoned their search for three Sherpas believed to have been killed along with 13 others in an avalanche on Friday
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